The Unusual Beauty of Rome

One of the unique gifts of being in Rome for such a long period of time is that you can wander anywhere on any particular day and find yourself surrounded in the beauty of ancient churches, architecture and masterpieces.

This weekend I was privileged to do all of that.  Friday afternoon I journeyed to the Sisters of Notre Dame Motherhouse to "scout" out the route before actually having Mass on Sunday morning.  I took the 32 bus to the 911 bus and got off at the Notre Dame stop.  So much for traveling incognito.  Two of the Indonesian nuns were also traveling on the bus and the "caught" me.  I got invited in for a cup of coffee and we enjoyed laughing about their discovery of me sharing the same bus with them.

Saturday I left the Casa O'Toole and trekked all through Rome.  My first stop was a beautiful museum called the Doria Pamphilii.  This gorgeous place was given to Pope Innocent X's nephew when he appointed him a cardinal. You've undoubtedly heard the word "nepotism."  The word comes from the Italian word nepotismo which is based on the Latin word nepos meaning nephew or grandson.  Since the clergy were celibate, they would often bestow special favors on their nephews, as was in the case of the Pamphilii palace.  Innocent's nephew, however, ended up marrying, giving up his position and collecting massive amounts of art.  He married into the Doria family, thus producing the "Doria Pamphilii" palace and wanting everyone to know him as a major patron of the arts.  Even the wallpaper here was considered rare and valuable.  In rooms without fabric wallcovering, he'd utilize paintings as a sort of wallpaper.

One painting which struck me was called, the Sacrifice of Isaac, by Pasquale Chiesa.  It was painted in 1666 and features the gnarled hand of Abraham, knife in hand, just about to enter into Isaac.  You can sense the danger, the fear, the trepidation, and the doubt as Abraham peers into heaven to hope for God's relent.  The interesting thing is that no one has ever heard about this artist yet his brilliance is recognized in this magnificent piece.

Later I visited the Church of San Marcello al Corso.  This church on the Via del Corso was a simpler church yet stunningly beautiful as well.  Though it suffered almost total destruction in the year, a crucifix was left completely untouched.  This was considered a miracle and, to this day, the cross is venerated and prayed before because of what had occurred.

On Sunday after Mass with the Sisters of Notre Dame I wandered to St. Peter in Chains, near the Roman Colloseum.  A reliquary near the sanctuary displays a set of chains supposedly used to bind the hands and feet of St. Peter before his crucifixion.  But the most visited spot in the church is the sculpture of Moses carved by Michelangelo commissioned by Pope Julius II for his tomb.  He is 8
feet tall sitting down, wearing a beautiful garment, filled with power and energy.  He looks as if he's about to stand, with left leg pushed back and commandments in hand.  His anger and fury are evident because, when he came down from Mt. Sinai, he finds the Israelites unfaithful.  Even in his beard there is energy and velocity creating rich shadows and alternations between dark and light and even textures.  Michelangelo wanted the tomb to be filled with carved figures but, unfortunately, he was unable to accomplish his vision.  However, the Moses is breathtaking and certainly conveys a powerful message to visitors even today, more than 500 years later.

Tre Fontane and St. Paul

Outside of the Church of his Execution

One of the 3 Fontains or wells

On Friday we visited the monastery of Tre Fontane (the 3 Fountains) where St. Paul was beheaded. In those days it was a swampy area outside the city of Rome where executions could take place with not much notice from the public.

The place is called Tre Fontane because there were 3 natural wells found there.  Legend has it that Paul's head bounced 3 times after it was severed and these were the places the wells were found. Today there is a church there with 3 shrine areas indicating where the wells were discovered.  Paul was executed somewhere between 64 and 67 AD.  From the start this was a place of worship and it changed hands from Greek monks to Cistercians to the Trappists who dwell there today.

The Palace of the Inquisitor

One of the interesting visits in Malta was the Palace of the Inquisitor.  Here is the place where local authorities represented the pope in matters of civil law and in keeping the peace.  It included a prison where some were held - usually in a very humane setting when someone broke the law.  The Roman inquisitor appealed to the pope himself.  Many jobs were available to the prisoners and each prisoner had the right to a lawyer.  If they were convinced you were guilty of a crime but you failed to admit it, you could be subject to torture methods.  However, a doctor had to discern whether you were fit enough to undergo it.  This was used as a court of appeals.  It was a medieval prison and prisoners had to sign an agreement never to disclose anything that you experienced inside the prison. Fortunately both faith and civility played a part in insuring that prisoners were well treated, had plenty of fresh air and had the right to representation.  Though some were tortured in this prison, none died while imprisoned.

The Beautiful Island of Malta

Last week we spent 5 days in Malta.  I had not known much about it other than St. Paul was shipwrecked there for 3 months.  (Acts 27, 28).  It's an amazing place - predominantly Catholic and filled with a great history including pagan temple sites, excavations and 500 Catholic churches on the island.  The local cuisine is rabbit.  As the old saying goes, "tastes like chicken."  This was the first Christianized nation in the west and was controlled by the Turks, the Normans, the Spanish, and the French.  It played a significant role in World War II as it was a place for the allies to strategically place their ships.  It was also considered the "nurse of the war" because it hosted 100,000 patients of the WWII conflicts on the island.  During the war it sustained 70,000 pounds of bombs.  There are 14 underground bomb shelters remaining on the island and during the war, people also found shelter in the catacombs on the island.  Malta is a total of 320 square kilometers and is the 4th densely populated country in the world.  In 1979 all the British left the country of Malta and it is now a neutral country.

Caravaggio and Malta

The beautiful cathedral of Malta hosts two of the world's most beautiful Caravaggio paintings.  We had the awesome privilege of seeing these two paintings.  Though photographs were not permitted, I've included some picture from the internet of these two great masterpieces.

In this first piece, St. Jerome Writing, we see Caravaggio utilizing the Grand Master of Malta, who had given him refuge when he was accused of murder.  Caravaggio left Rome for Malta after he had been accused of killing his lover's wife.  Remember that Caravaggio had a sketchy history.  He was a master with the paintbrush and canvas, but his personal life was a disaster.  As a thanks to the Grand Master, he painted these two magnificent works of art for the Cathedral of St. John.  It depicts St. Jerome, who translated the Scriptures from Greek into Latin, the native tongue of the Roman people.  The skull is a reminder of death.  No matter how good a life we lead here, ultimately, we belong to God and, ultimately, we all shall die.  The candlestick to the right represents spiritual illumination.  The beauty of this painting comes from the light shining on the important work St. Jerome is about.  The light comes from the left hand side illuminating not only St. Jerome but the clothing he wears, the skull and the manuscript.  Look at the torso of the saint.  You can even see the shadow of one arm crossing over his chest.  Caravaggio had an amazing skill with light.

The other magnificent piece is the Beheading of St. John the Baptist.  Though this image looks rather dark, it is a huge piece and you notice lots of light from the center of the painting.  Caravaggio painted this in just a week!  He also never used sketches.  He just started applying the paintbrush to the canvas.  There is a lot of open space in this painting.  Caravaggio was concerned about showing us the important scene and left other details lacking.  You see the bowing maid holding a platter to receive the head of the Baptist. Perhaps she is meant to be the wife of Herodias, who asks for John's head.  Others say that she appears to have striking Maltese characteristics.  The old maid places her head in her hands as she is appalled by the horrific act of beheading a prophet.  She is the only person depicted who reacts negatively to what is happening in the scene.  The jailer orders the placing of the head of the baptist on the platter.  His pointing hand is bathed in light emphasizing the order to kill John.  Some say this jailer is again the character of the Grand Master of Malta.  The executioner commands our attention by the detail of the muscles on his back and arms.  He reaches for the dagger but notice how there is no blood on the sword, nor the dagger.  And John's head is hardly severed at this point.  Caravaggio knew this piece would be placed in a church and he wanted to inspire, not to repulse the viewers.  Below the flow of blood Caravaggio signs the piece.  It is the only one of his works that he signed.  John's garment is bright red - the color of royalty.  He wants us to pay attention to him.  The rope near John's neck appears to still be moving, indicating that the depiction occurs right after the deed had been done.  On the right side of the painting, onlookers peer from a window - as if to say, we are blocked from doing anything about this.  Were they upset? Concerned?  Bewildered?  Frightened?  It's hard to know but we know that they look on the scene from afar.

As I reflected on this painting, I thought to myself, "Do I stand up when someone is unjustly treated?"  "Am I more a spectator, than someone who intercedes for another?"  "Am I willing to die for my faith?  Stand up for my beliefs?  Defend those who have no voice to speak for themselves?"  Lots to think about and reflect on in these beautiful works by Caravaggio..  

Pontifical Council for Promoting the New Evangelization

Yesterday we had the privilege and honor of visiting the Office of the Pontifical Council for Promoting the Evangelization.  Fr. Geno Sylva was our presenter and he is the English language representative for this council.  There are three responsibilities of the office.  First, to promote the new evangelization.  Second, to plan for, promote and execute the Jubilee Year celebrations.  Third, to approve catechetical texts and to help Dioceses in planning for and implementing catechesis.

Fr. Geno told us of the Pope's thinking regarding the Jubilee Year of Mercy.  Some of the highlights include:

• The Pope will perform an act of mercy each month for the next year with the hope that priests and parishes throughout the world will do the same.
• Holy doors will be designated in every diocese throughout the world.
• The Vatican will help to build a new Cathedral in Uganda and help to establish an orphanage so that the effects of the Holy Year will be lasting.
• Priests delegated as "missionaries of mercy" will gather in Rome and be trained to offer days of reflections on mercy for parish communities and be available for confessions.

He also explained a lot about the logo for the Jubilee Year of Mercy.  It was designed by an iconographer and depicts the lost sheep gathered into the arms of the shepherd.  There are only 3 eyes with one middle eye shared between the two.  When we are able to care for one another with mercy and compassion, we share a common vision to see things together.  The almond shape is significant in iconography and the colors indicate a move from darkness into the light.

Fr. Sylva indicated the importance of every Catholic to be a "protagonist" in helping the Gospel to be preached to all ends of the earth.

St. Paul Basilica - Outside the Walls

Today was our final day with Liz Lev, professor of Art History for the Gregorian University as well as Duquesne.  I've been to many visits to this famous Basilica but she helps me to see things in a way I've never seen before.

St. Paul's was built originally in the 1500's as the largest church in the world.  It was built to honor the memory of St. Paul, whose remains are buried there.  Paul returns after his shipwreck in Malta. He and St. Peter were to be killed on the very same day.

Legend has it that Paul was taken to Tres Fontaine where he was beheaded.  There is a story told about a follower of his who was weeping knowing that Paul was to be taken to be executed.  He asks her for her scarf to cover his eyes as he's being killed.  Legend has it that his head bounced 3 times which is where we get the name, "Tres Fontaine," (the three fountains).  Paul's body was placed into a mass grave with the scarf.  When the woman and her family found the scarf still wrapped around Paul's head, they knew they had discovered his body and placed it into their family grave.

In 1823 a worker inside the basilica left an ember burning.  Soon the entire roof was inflamed and substantially destroyed the interior of the building.  In 1823 Napoleon had just succeeded in raiding Italy and Rome was bankrupt.  Leo XIII and Gregory XVI asked the faithful for donations. Successful in their campaign, they finished restoring the basilica in 1854 but made it spectacular.

The basilica is located at the intersection of two major streets.  It rises above the skyline and greets travelers from great distance.  The courtyard is spectacular.  It prepares you mentally from the travel to come to a place of celestial peace.  The statue of Paul dominates the courtyard.  He appears with a sword in hand - a reminder of his journeys as defender of the faith.

The interior of St. Paul's has always impressed me and today I discovered why.  You enter in and

begin to realize just how important space is.  Unlike the pagan Roman temples, here is where humanity and divinity meet.  In the temple sacrifices to the gods were made outside the sanctuary.  In the Christian churches, you are drawn upward to meet God and God comes down to earth to be one with us.  Unlike the temples, there is no separation between heaven and earth.  You are drawn into something deeper and richer - into the mystery and the presence of God.

Unlike pagan temples, Christians wanted to incorporate light into their worship spaces.  We move out of the shadows and into the light.  The light in this basilica "beams" into the church from heaven above.  The nave of the church is a reminder that we are all in this "boat" together.   The very architecture of the basilica explains who God is and who we are.

A unique aspect of this Basilica are the medallions of all 266 popes since Peter onward.  The mosaic lab at the Vatican (since 1565) designed each of these medallions.  An interesting story is told about Pope Francis.  He was announced as Holy Father in March but the medallion did not get placed into St. Paul's until December, 2013.  He didn't want to sit for his official photo shoot and this is what they use to create the mosaic.  He finally sat for the photo in October and then announced he wanted the medallion to be in place by December.  Two workers spent months on the design and it is truly spectacular.  The red of the pope's vestment come from some of the oldest stone in the mosaic lab dating back to the 1500's.  Looking at the mosaic, you could swear it was a photograph - it's that realistic!

The canopy above the main altar is remarkable.  Anolfo Dicambrio created it around the Jubilee Year of 1300.  It, obviously, survived the fire.  The canopy has multiple purposes.  First, it protects the Eucharist from dust and debris.  These ceilings are hundreds of years old and in constant need of cleaning and restoration.  Second, it signifies the meeting of heaven and earth.  God comes down from heaven onto the altar in the Eucharist.  This canopy utilizes heavy marble in such a way as to appear airy and light.  DiCambrio depicts prophets, angels, Adam and Eve all above the altar to indicate all above the Eucharistic table.

The beautiful mosaic in the apse is a Greek design.  Jesus appears more serene and fair-skinned than
in usual depictions.  The apostles surround him.   There was tremendous comfort and strength praying before this magnificent icon.

Two more noteworthy elements of the basilica.  The Eucharistic chapel has a cross before which St. Bridget of Sweden prayed.  She came to visit the pope to ask for his permission to begin a new religious community.  He was not in Rome so she came to St. Paul's to pray.  She did so before this crucifix and, from the cross, Jesus spoke to her affirming the choice to move forward with the new community.  Also, Ignatius prayed here as well before relics now on the main altar.  It was here that he and his followers informally began what is known today as the Jesuit community.

Finally, the tomb of St. Paul is below the main altar under the canopy.  There is a remnant of the chain which bound him and his tomb is below that.  A few years ago they placed a fiber optic camera into the tomb and discovered bone matter, a purple cloth and gold sequin.  These indicated that early Christians wrapped Paul's remains with the color of dignity and royalty.  The same were found in St. Peter's tomb at the Vatican.

Peter and Paul are often pictured together.  Romans loved to do this because it also reminded them that their city was founded by two brothers, Remus and Romulus.  Peter and Paul are seen as brother sin the faith who were killed on the very same da