I began Suday morning with a beautiful Mass at the Cathedral of St. John a true hidden gem just beyond the Kulturpark, about six tram stops from where I’m staying in Konak. I was delighted to meet the Polish pastor and his associate, Father Moses, a priest from Nigeria - yet another reminder of the Church’s universality. Entry to the Cathedral requires being buzzed in. While there have been no security incidents, caution is understandable in this predominately Muslim country. The church itself is striking blending a sense of the past with the present. I learned that it was administered by the U.S. Military until fairly recently when it was returned to the local diocese of Izmir. The English-language congregation was a mix of expatriates, those working in Izmir and many members of the military. With the organist ill, we the music was accompanied by guitar, and we sang the familiar hymns we know so well from home. After Mass, we gathered for a small social, enjoying conversations about faith, community, life in Turkey and situations awaiting us back home.
From there we traveled to a part of the city built along a steep incline, where we rode a remarkable French-designed elevator. It was funded by a wealthy Jewish benefactor who beieved the long, steep stairways were too demanding for the elderly and the frail. He commisioned this impressive public eevator - still free to use today - which carries passengers effortlessly from top to bottom. The ride not only provide ease of access but also offers magnificent views of the harbor and the bustling city below.
We then boarded a ferry - conveniently included with the inexpensive transit pass - and crossed the bay to the neighborhood where my friend, Jennifer, and her husband live. We enjoyed a wonderful lunch featuring Turkish “pizza” (of sorts) and fresh greens (I felt healthier already!). Aftewards we strolled along the waterside promenade before saying our goodbyes and I returned by ferry to the opposite shore.
Determined to experience a Turkish bath before heading home, I arrived at the facility at exactly 5:00 p.m. Women were permitted until 5:00 p.m. And men admitted exactly at 5. I should have allowed for a “grace” period. I opened the front door and was startled to find a woman, topless, brushing her hair with her back to me. I quickly shut the door and decided a cup of cxoffee and a pastry might be a good idea before coming back to try again. After 30 minutes the women had left and it was once, “safe again” to return.
Turkish baths are a fascinating institution. While I don’t know all the deatils of their history, they clearly developed in densely populated areas where cleanliness and sanitation were essential. After securing my belongings in a locked dressing room I entered a sauna for a 15 minute sweat bath, meant to draw out any impurities and toxins. After having battled strong winds and chilly temps in the 30’s all day, the warmth was especially welcome. From there, I moved into the main bathing area, seated on a marble bench while hot water was poured over me. I was then led to a massive marble slap where I lay gazing up at a ceiling dotted with color glass - like a sky of multi-colored stars - as condensation gently dripped all around and on me.
Next came the loufah scubbing - deep, thorough, and intense. At one point I was fairly certain I no longer had any skin left on me! More soap, more hot-water rinses, a gentle massage, and finally , the grand conclusion. I felt like a million bucks - or at least half a million! I returned hom adn slept like a baby. The entire experience cost just $30 - well worth it for a great night’s sleep and a squeaky, clean body. Ad yes, sorry, no pictures allowed!
No comments:
Post a Comment