The Mystical Beauty of Izmir

Its been several years since I was in Izmir.  Even then it was only for a few hours.  I must say this time is very different.  Years ago I celebrated Mass at Holy Family Church in Izmir.  It was a quick stop to visit Jennifer Johnson-onay, a cousin of one of our Holy Angels parishioners, Sabrina Williard.  It seemed so enchanting so itching to have me return to it.  Its situated on a bay and a single few hours was not enough to delve into its Christian history, its Ottoman history or its rich, eclectic demographic.  I was mesmerized and vowed I would make it back, someday.  

Izmir is situated in the western part of Turkey, at the head of the Aegean coast on the Gulf of Izmir.  Its rich history includes Roman, Greek, Ottoman and Turkish influences with a modern Mediteranean feel to it.  It’s a very different city than Istanbul.  Fewer people here speak English yet there are folks situated here from all around the world.  

I took my first full day here to enjoy strolling the Kemerati Market.  It seemed to go on for days and days.  Unlike other market places, its not under a single roof.  It goes down streets and is covered in some areas, not covered in other areas.  It looks like the West Side market down one alley and a thrift store down another.  There is not one single personality here but many.  And there is no common theme.  Beautiful sweaters might be sold next to spices next to raw eggs next to handmade Turkish candies.  You never know what you’ll find at the next corner.  And the prices are exceedingly reasonable.  The Turkish lira is amazingly deflated these days.  A ride on the transit is about 30-40 cents.  And you can ride on the same ticket for 2 hours!  An average full meal (my table was full last night cost less than $10 American dollars).  My 2 hours of shopping time netted me a bar of homemade rosemary soap for a total of 60 cents.  Take a look at the dog sitting on the table outside a bar.  It was just begging for me to come in for a drink.  I abstained!!!!  After that I headed to the Agora.  

The Agora was a set of government buildings constructed during the Roman Empire.  These, of course, pre-dated the construction of churches and facilitated the running of everydaylife for citizens and officials.  It was a highly structured society back then with a full legal system and lots of meeting rooms and even army planning rooms.  The market, just below the Agora made sense as government and society flowed evenly one from another.