Hierapolis, Parmakulle, Laodicea

 The area of Hierapolis and Parmukkale is what was formerly the Kingdom of Phrygia, mentioned often in the Scriptures.  This is area of King Midas, and the Hittites, and the Greeks and Romans who inhabited the land for centuries and influenced its culture and its buildings.  St. Philip was sent here to proclaim the Good News of Jesus and had a significant impact in this region of Asia Minor.  However, he ended up being martyred here, hung upside down, and buried up on one of the hillsides.  His tomb is still venerated today.  

Just below the city of Hierapolis is an interesting hillside called Parmukkale.  Its snow white stone gives you the impression you might be on a hillside in Colorado because the white stone resembles snow but it’s actually hard as rock.  Pools of warm water cascade down the mountainside and you can take off your shoes and enjoy a respite from the cold winter breeze.  Down below is Cleopatra’s pool.  In the warmer weather you can take a dip there.  Obviously the queen didn’t know I was coming otherwise she would have welcomed me with open arms I’m certain! :). 

This was a fascinating day as a part of my overnight trip to Denzili to see Laodicea, one of the seven churches of the book of Revelation.  I didn’t realize I’d discover St. Philip’s tomb or these beautiful hot springs or the ancient kingdom of Phrgia.  There is so much to discover here.  At every turn a new adventure awaits!

St. Philip’s Tomb

Today I had the opportunity to pray at the grave of St. Philip, the apostle of Jesus.  He was martyred in Phrygia, a once thriving kingdom known for King Midas, in which was located important Christian cities like Laodicea, Colossae and Hierapolis.  The latter is the place of Philip’s tomb. The location is noted in history and there was a rock discovered bearing the site and his name.  It has been venerated for centuries since his death.  I really didn’t know that until I decided to visit this ancient place.  Then I visited Parmukkale which is a place of ancient springs.  I had the opportunity to put my feet into the warm water and take a break from the many miles of walking I’ve done today and yesterday in Laodicea.  For more on my trip check out my blog site: danschlegel.blogspot.com.

Ephesus and the Virgin Mary’s Home

Ephesus is not a far distance from Izmir - only about 2 hours by train.  You transfer only once and exit the train in a small, quaint city called Selcuk and then take a short mini bus ride to the Ephesus archeological site.  The only way to the Virgin Mary’s dormition site is by taxi but if you do take a taxi you can enter Ephesus from the upper entrance and can walk downhill rather than uphill.  That’s what I decided to do/.I tried to talk two Brazilian woman to join me for the taxi ride so we could split the fare but I must have looked suspicious so they declined!

The Virgin Mother’s final resting place is somewhat historical but not completely so.  It is based on the fact that St. John the beloved disciple had been exiled to the island of Patmos by the emperor Domitian.  Once the emperor died, John was released from his captivity and returned to Ephesus to care for Mary in her final days.  It was only in the 1800’s that a German Augustinian mystic by the name of Sr. Catherine Emmerich who had many visions and depictions of Mary’s final resting place and frequently described the place in exact and specific detail as the place on Bulbal Hill.  It was also declared to be Mary’s place of dormition at the Council of Ephesus.  I had the opportunity to spend about 30-40 minutes there in peace and quiet prayer and reflection grateful for the visit and the chance to bring many people to prayer and thought in the very spot that the Virgin Mary spent her last moments in this world in.

This looked to be like a baptismal font of sorts.

These are the toilets for the bathroom.  You probably didn't get to choose who you sat next do and I doubt there were any partitions!

This is the amazing city street leading to the Library in Ephesus.  The fascade of the library is in amazing condition though the inside was destroyed by an earthquake.

Do you notice halfway down the sculpture, the Nike symbol? This is actually where the inspiration for the Nike symbol came from.  It is the original sculpture of the goddess Nike.

This is the theatre at Ephesus.  It seats 10,000 people.  They had opened it for public concerts, including many rock concerts.  Unfortunately they found that the very loud concerts were wreaking havoc 

on the building's structure so they are working to reinforce some of the structure

 so that it doesn't do any further damage. 

This statue is on the roadway from the Virgin Mary's home to the Upper Entrance of Ephesus.  It was donated by a wealthy American businessman.

I was dropped off at the upper entrance of Ephesus.  It is this site that has fascinated and intrigued most Christians coming to Turkey.  For one thing, it is an immense site and beautifully preserved. Many years of care and attention have been paid to restoration and respecting the historicity and culture of this special city and its importance in both the political and ecclesial world.  It was the center of life for thousands of citizens and faithful and was an important place of culture and commerce.  

You could just picture its citizens strolling down the cobblestone streets heading to the great library, or to the ampitheatre, to the bathhouses or to the marketplaces, or to the church or synagogue to pray.  Life was bustling and you could almost picture the vibe of the place in its heyday with children running through the streets, carts pulled by horses and farm animals and goats naying in complaint of their owners reigns.  Just off the center street there were several homes still preserved with immaculate attention giving a small glimpse into daily life for most wealthy Ephesians.  

You’d think I’d have had enough of the train system to have figured it out yet but I missed my first train headed back home.  So then I got on the really slow one.  I had hoped to join Jennifer at one of the oldest standing Smyrnan churches (St. Polycarp) for an ecumenical prayer service but I was already an hour late!  By the time I got there the door was locked.  I tried ringing the doorbell (to no avail) and ended up taking an uber back to my apartment to get some well needed rest.  My public transportation plan let me down but, that’s the way the tires roll sometimes.  Enjoy these fabulous pics from Ephesus and Mary’s house.

Sunday Catholic in a Muslim City

I began Suday morning with a beautiful Mass at the Cathedral of St. John a true hidden gem just beyond the Kulturpark, about six tram stops from where I’m staying in Konak.  I was delighted to meet the Polish pastor and his associate, Father Moses, a priest from Nigeria - yet another reminder of the Church’s universality.  Entry to the Cathedral requires being buzzed in.  While there have been no security incidents, caution is understandable in this predominately Muslim country.  The church itself is striking blending a sense of the past with the present.  I learned that it was administered by the U.S. Military until fairly recently when it was returned to the local diocese of Izmir.  The English-language congregation was a mix of expatriates, those working in Izmir and many members of the military.  With the organist ill, we the music was accompanied by guitar, and we sang the familiar hymns we know so well from home.  After Mass, we gathered for a small social, enjoying conversations about faith, community, life in Turkey and situations awaiting us back home.  

Jennifer and I then explored Izmir by tram, taking in the rhythm and the energy in the city along the way.  We stopped near one of the local Turkish baths and checked the hours for the men’s section, and I decided I would return later in the day.  We also visited the famous clock tower, designed by the same architect responsible for the Eiffel Tower, and the similarities were unmistakable.  

From there we traveled to a part of the city built along a steep incline, where we rode a remarkable French-designed elevator.  It was funded by a wealthy Jewish benefactor who beieved the long, steep stairways were too demanding for the elderly and the frail.  He commisioned this impressive public eevator - still free to use today - which carries passengers effortlessly from top to bottom.  The ride not only provide ease of access but also offers magnificent views of the harbor and the bustling city below.

We then boarded a ferry - conveniently included with the inexpensive transit pass - and crossed the bay to the neighborhood where my friend, Jennifer, and her husband live.  We enjoyed a wonderful lunch featuring Turkish “pizza” (of sorts) and fresh greens (I felt healthier already!).  Aftewards we strolled along the waterside promenade before saying our goodbyes and I returned by ferry to the opposite shore.

Determined to experience a Turkish bath before heading home, I arrived at the facility at exactly 5:00 p.m.  Women were permitted until 5:00 p.m. And men admitted exactly at 5.  I should have allowed for a “grace” period.  I opened the front door and was startled to find a woman, topless, brushing her hair with her back to me.  I quickly shut the door and decided a cup of cxoffee and a pastry might be a good idea before coming back to try again.  After 30 minutes the women had left and it was once, “safe again” to return.

Turkish baths are a fascinating institution.  While I don’t know all the deatils of their history, they clearly developed in densely populated areas where cleanliness and sanitation were essential.  After securing my belongings in a locked dressing room I entered a sauna for a 15 minute sweat bath, meant to draw out any impurities and toxins.  After having battled strong winds and chilly temps in the 30’s all day, the warmth was especially welcome.  From there, I moved into the main bathing area, seated on a marble bench while hot water was poured over me.  I was then led to a massive marble slap where I lay gazing up at a ceiling dotted with color glass - like a sky of multi-colored stars - as condensation gently dripped all around and on me.  

Next came the loufah scubbing - deep, thorough, and intense.  At one point I was fairly certain I no longer had any skin left on me!  More soap, more hot-water rinses, a gentle massage, and finally , the grand conclusion.  I felt like a million bucks - or at least half a million! I returned hom adn slept like a baby.  The entire experience cost just $30 - well worth it for a great night’s sleep and a squeaky, clean body.  Ad yes, sorry, no pictures allowed!

The Mystical Beauty of Izmir

Its been several years since I was in Izmir.  Even then it was only for a few hours.  I must say this time is very different.  Years ago I celebrated Mass at Holy Family Church in Izmir.  It was a quick stop to visit Jennifer Johnson-onay, a cousin of one of our Holy Angels parishioners, Sabrina Williard.  It seemed so enchanting so itching to have me return to it.  Its situated on a bay and a single few hours was not enough to delve into its Christian history, its Ottoman history or its rich, eclectic demographic.  I was mesmerized and vowed I would make it back, someday.  

Izmir is situated in the western part of Turkey, at the head of the Aegean coast on the Gulf of Izmir.  Its rich history includes Roman, Greek, Ottoman and Turkish influences with a modern Mediteranean feel to it.  It’s a very different city than Istanbul.  Fewer people here speak English yet there are folks situated here from all around the world.  

I took my first full day here to enjoy strolling the Kemerati Market.  It seemed to go on for days and days.  Unlike other market places, its not under a single roof.  It goes down streets and is covered in some areas, not covered in other areas.  It looks like the West Side market down one alley and a thrift store down another.  There is not one single personality here but many.  And there is no common theme.  Beautiful sweaters might be sold next to spices next to raw eggs next to handmade Turkish candies.  You never know what you’ll find at the next corner.  And the prices are exceedingly reasonable.  The Turkish lira is amazingly deflated these days.  A ride on the transit is about 30-40 cents.  And you can ride on the same ticket for 2 hours!  An average full meal (my table was full last night cost less than $10 American dollars).  My 2 hours of shopping time netted me a bar of homemade rosemary soap for a total of 60 cents.  Take a look at the dog sitting on the table outside a bar.  It was just begging for me to come in for a drink.  I abstained!!!!  After that I headed to the Agora.  

The Agora was a set of government buildings constructed during the Roman Empire.  These, of course, pre-dated the construction of churches and facilitated the running of everydaylife for citizens and officials.  It was a highly structured society back then with a full legal system and lots of meeting rooms and even army planning rooms.  The market, just below the Agora made sense as government and society flowed evenly one from another. 

 

A Little History

It’s important to know a little bit of the background of the book of Revelation and the “why” of St. John’s writing to these seven major churches in Asia Minor, in the eastern church.  The seven churches are primarily mentioned in Revelation chapters 2 and 3.  They include Ephesus, Laodicea, Thyatira, Sardis, Pergamon, Philadelphia and Smyrna.  I will definitely be visiting Ephesus.  It is a very well preserved archeological site and includes, nearby, the home where Mary died in the care of the beloved disciple, John.  The home is presently in the care of the Turkish government.  Interestingly enough I hope to meet the priest who oversees the property but we will be unable to meet at the actual site since it is controlled by the government but we hope to meet at a nearby cafe and have some time to talk about the important historical site.  Laodicea is modern day Denzili.  The drive there is about 2.5 hours from the city of Izmir, where I am staying.  I have an apartment I rented for just a little over $50 per night.  It’s off-season so I was able to find a bargain!  It’s in a brand new building (earthquake safe) and its got a washing machine, a balcony and is in a younger aged neighborhood with access to public transit and shoppping access.  I’ll rent a car in Denzili and go to Parkumule (a place of many springs) and Hierapolis.  I’ll stay overnight there and take the train back to my home base in Izmir.  Izmir is actually ancient Smyrna.  It has archeological sites near the city center which I will visit as well.  It is not as well preserved as Ephesus and Laodicea but I will take the time to visit there too.  I’m not sure how much is left to see at the other sites so it’ll be a toss up to see whether I’ll have the time or energy to see the other sites.

We have a parishioner at St. Raphael who grew up in Izmir and has a brother who lives there.  He’ll be picking me up at the airport.  I have another friend who lives in Izmir.  She’ll be taking me to Mass with her on Sunday and each day.  I chose not to concelebrate Mass.  With such a small Catholic population in Turkey (2%) I wasn’t sure how well received I would be so I decided to go “low key.”  

At one time this was part of the Byzantine Empire.  Constantinople (modern day Istanbul) was the center of the Eastern rite church.  It was filled with loads of Christians and Christianity was thriving here.  Perhaps it was the very thing St. John warned against that became its downfall here.  Perhaps its the very reason that the threats that face our world today should give us heed and help us pay attention to the signs around us whether in Israel, the Middle East or in our own nation.  As the book of Revelation so aptly reminds us, evil is always trying to defeat good and we must be aware of its constant threat knowing that the power of God ultimately will prevail.

The Trip to Turkey begins

 

I guess this is why travel during this time of year is so inexpensive.  The top photo is of Cleveland as I was preparing to fly to Newark.  I left during a snowstorm in Cleveland - thankfully - no delays.  The second is my flight arrival in Zurich, Switzerland.  I didn’t even know we were landing - I could see absolutely nothing out the windows - no Swiss Alps, no runway, no other plans, no airport below - nothing but thick fog.  The last leg of my journey begins in a couple of hours as I fly to Izmir.  One of our parishioners, Sue Roach,  is from Izmir.  Her brother will be picking me up from the airport and taking me to my Airbnb apartment where I will spend the next 7 days.  I’ll meet up with a friend, Jennifer, tomorrow.  Her husband is a Turkish man from Izmir who is very ill.  She’ll spend some time with me taking me to church and some of the sites around Izmir.  I’ll head to Ephesus early next week and then later in the week to ancient Laodicea and the area of Pergamon and modern day Parmukale.  Keep watching the blog site for future posts.  Flights have been fine with no problems whatsoever.